Arrival in Palermo
After a long but beautiful day on the Amalfi Coast, we caught an evening flight to Palermo. By the time we landed at 9 p.m., we were tired but buzzing with excitement — Sicily was the next chapter of our adventure. Our driver whisked us to the Grand Hotel Wagner, an elegant, old-world property with detailed woodwork and spacious rooms. After a quick nightcap in the hotel’s ornate bar, we called it a night.
First Impressions of Palermo
Palermo is a big city — the capital of Sicily with nearly 850,000 residents. After the calm of Amalfi, the energy here hit us immediately. Wide boulevards are packed with traffic, while the side streets hum with local life. We spent the day exploring on foot, armed with a Rick Steves walking map, determined to take in as much as possible. Our goal, well really my husband’s, was to find the Ballaro Market in time for lunch.
Walking Tour Highlights
Our first stop was the Teatro Massimo, the largest opera house in Italy and third largest in Europe. Even though it was closed, its grandeur set the tone for the day. As we wandered, artisan shops caught our eye — hand-carved puppets, inlaid wood, candlesticks.
At the Church of San Domenico, we paused at the tomb of Giovanni Falcone, the anti-mafia judge remembered as a national hero. The city’s layers of history are everywhere, from the lively Vucciria Market, where vendors practically sing out to lure you in, to the Kalsa neighborhood, home to the haunting Oratory of San Lorenzo, once the site of Caravaggio’s stolen Nativity.
Eventually, we reached Piazza Bellini, where three magnificent churches stand shoulder to shoulder: the golden mosaics of Martorana, the red domes of San Cataldo, and the ornate Santa Caterina. At Santa Caterina’s cloister, we sampled cannoli baked by the nuns — sweet, rich, and unforgettable.
The tour ended at Quattro Canti, Palermo’s famous “Four Corners.” Each ornate Baroque façade tells a story — the seasons, the kings of Spain, the city’s saints — and together they form one of the most photographed spots in Palermo.
The picture below is a popular image of Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino who were national heroes in the anti-mafia movement.
Markets & Lunch
Of course, we couldn’t miss Ballarò Market. Even on a Tuesday afternoon it was bustling. Vendors shouted, laughed, and waved us over to their stalls. My traveling companions were thrilled by the endless seafood, while I happily sampled traditional pasta dishes. Traveling always nudges me to try things I wouldn’t normally order — and sometimes I’m pleasantly surprised.
The Cathedral
The highlight of the afternoon was the Palermo Cathedral, founded in 1184 and blending Norman, Gothic, and Islamic influences. That’s the story of Sicily in a nutshell — a crossroads of cultures and conquerors. Inside, the cathedral is striking, but the real treat is climbing to the roof. From the top, we had sweeping views of the city framed by mountains. It was worth every step.T
Dinner to Remember
That evening, the hotel concierge suggested Doba Restaurant and Terrace, overlooking the opera house. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. I ordered lamb ravioli — not usually my favorite — but this dish changed my mind completely. It was rich, delicate, and unforgettable. With good wine and an incredible view, it was the perfect ending to our first day in Sicily.
Final Thoughts
Palermo is not a quiet city — it’s bold, layered, and alive with history. In just one day we experienced opera houses, bustling markets, stolen masterpieces, golden mosaics, and unforgettable food. And yet, this was only the beginning.
👉 This post only scratched the surface of what Palermo has to offer. For even more highlights and tips, grab my free guide [HERE]. And don’t forget to subscribe so you don’t miss the next 11 days of our Sicilian adventure!
